Finally, Kim & I resurface again with an update! It’s actually been so good & refreshing for me not to have a laptop to worry about & internet to fall back to here in Kapsowar. Each day here has so far been filled with new learnings, new friends with such hospitality, amazing stories of lives lived & travels, & heaps of greetings of “Habari!” with the response “mzuri”.
Last time we updated, we were in Nairobi. Early on Tuesday morning, we took a taxi to the North Rift Valley shuttle office, and boarded our matatu for a 5-hour trip to Eldoret. Kim & I & our luggage & box of medical aid took up the 3 seats at the back (we had to pay for the extra seat). It was quite scenic along the way & I saw my first zebras!
Arriving in Eldoret, we were thrust straight into a bustling city, with people in & out going about their daily business. We were met by Drs. Christina & Ben & his wife Cathy, who are American & Canadian respectively! It was our first time actually walking around in a Kenyan urban centre. And we actually ate at a Chinese restaurant there, which was actually very good! (It was Dr. Christina’s birthday wish & treat.) Met the chef & his wife who were Mainlanders. We wondered how on earth they got to this part of the world — & I’m sure they were wondering the same about Kim & I! Visited a great, cute li’l souvenir shop owned by friends of previous missionary from Kapsowar, so they gave us good bargains, and Kim & I each found good finds. Then bought groceries at Tusky’s in preparation for what we wouldn’t be able to find in Kapsowar — peanut butter, cereal (we got the cheap brand-less corn flakes), instant noodles, capsicums, apples, frozen chicken.
The trip to Kapsowar was in the Kapsowar Hospital’s ambulance, carrying 13 people + our luggage + bags & bags of groceries & purchases from town (Eldoret). And wow, that was the fastest, bumpiest ride OF MY LIFE! Turns out the road from Eldoret to Kapsowar was left unfinished due to political neglect, & thus lack of money. Whereas there’s another road that’s paved beautifully but goes another direction from Kapsowar, but barely anyone uses it. Go figure. Welcome to Africa.
As Kim said, I’ve been following the 2 Kenyan doctors here at the hospital –from the paeds to female & male surgical & medical wards to the HIV clinic to the outpatients department. One of the things that has struck me is the lengths & distances people go to to even just see the doctor, and the immense cost they are willing to pay. The average pay is 200 Kenyan shillings a week, which is<$3USD (1 USD = 72 KSh) & one consultation costs 1600 KSh alone. Being admitted has daily costs, beyond the cost of any meds you’re prescribed. Still, patients want admittance. I was in the consult room with a young lady who came in with a headache, but other than that, had nothing else of medical significance. Yet she still wanted to be admitted to the ward! After 20 min. of consultation, Dr. Kinyua finally admitted her, & I sensed that there was an underlying social issue at home that drove her to want to stay at the hospital overnight. Dr. Kinyua agreed, and suspects depression as part of her problem. Many of the female medical patients come in complaining of headaches, but look sicker than the clinical exam & investigations actually say. Many of their problems are psychological, but Dr. Kinyua says noone, nurses nor doctors, want to take the time to delve into counselling these patients. It makes me think about psychiatry as a possible interest…
Visitors are loved here! Everyone keeps telling us this. The children who live at the station ( as in ‘mission station’ that’s part of the hospital) are always coming up to our house, knocking on the door or at the window. We were told not to spoil them too much with sweets or stickers, ’cause they could come demanding for more.
We had a humbling & amazing time at the orphanage yesterday that Kim talked about already. I have more words than I can share now about our time there.
And I am sunburned at last! I didn’t think I’d catch much sun with Kapsowar being 7800ft in altitude, but hours of hiking (in a long skirt!) + my hypersensitivity to sun due to taking Doxycycline (malaria prophylaxis) has done it for me & Kim! We are tanned from 2 hiking treks. And I loved it – the scenery is beautiful & the gardens & croplands (of maize mainly) make the hillsides a venerable quilt. It’s amazing how they can garden along the steep slopes here!
People here have the best names – all from the Bible. There are 3 Shadrachs, met a Hosea, James, Solomon, Salome, Hezekiah, Mary, and Zephaniah (who is a very cool dude).
We attended the AIC church next to the hospital this morning – English service was pretty small compared to AIC Ngong Road (in Nairobi) but the Kiswahili service afterwards looked to be pretty hoppin’! They had Gr. 8 kids from 5 schools visiting so they could be prayed for, so they had to move the service to the field outside the church. And of course, Kiswahili worship music is very lively with all the hand-clapping & the swaying & the call & response. We will definitely have to check out a Swahili service another Sunday.
Dr. Ben & Cathy, the lovely Canadian couple from Vancouver, invited us over to their house for Sunday dinner tonight – roast chicken’s on the menu plus their smoked salmon that they brought! We are seriously being taken care of here. Then we’re having Bible study afterwards – definitely an answer to our prayer for spiritual nourishment whilst we’re here. Okay, time to go home to cook some veggies to contribute!